Almost every beginner thinks climbing shoes should be painfully tight.
I thought the same when I started climbing — I assumed tighter meant better performance.
But over time, I realized that idea is not completely right.
Climbing shoes should feel snug and controlled, but not painfully tight.
If the shoe is too loose, you lose precision and confidence on small footholds.
But if it’s too tight, your movement becomes restricted and your technique suffers.
Relaxed fit with minimal pressure. Best for beginners and long sessions.
Snug but controlled. A mix of comfort and performance for progression.
Very tight and precise. Designed for advanced climbers on steep terrain.
When I bought my first climbing shoes, I thought they were already tight enough.
But after I got used to them, I realized they were actually too big — there was too much space in the heel, and my toes could still move inside the shoe.
That made me feel less confident on small footholds, especially when I needed precision.
Honestly, I felt like I wasted money because my first pair was already quite expensive.
What I learned is this: there is no need to rush into performance shoes. As you improve, beginner shoes are more than enough — and they are also much more affordable.
You can upgrade later when you start feeling limited by your shoes.
And actually, your first climbing shoes don’t go to waste — they often become your “chill day” climbing shoes when you just want to enjoy easy sessions, warm-ups, or relaxed climbing.
Not painfully tight — but tight enough to feel secure and confident.
The key is finding a fit that gives you control without discomfort.
This does not mean you should always choose the most comfortable shoes.
If the shoes is too loose, you will lose foot confidence and precision.
The goal is to find the tightest fit that still feels usable — not painful, but controlled.
Start with balance. Build confidence. Progress naturally.
Shop La Sportiva ShoesClimber: Pon
My Community: Alpine Outpost Chiang Mai
My Link to Jakarta: I am a route setter and was part of the team that completed the "First Set" at Alpine Outpost Thamrin, which remains one of my favorite climbing gyms.
